This is usually a light issue. Monsteras produce splits when they have enough light to support extra leaf surface area. It can also be maturity-related—young plants often have solid leaves for the first year or two.
Transform your space with the architectural grandeur of the Monstera. While the classic fenestrated leaves of the Deliciosa and the trailing charm of the Adansonii are essential for any indoor jungle, we specialize in the truly elite.
Elevate your collection with the ethereal Monstera “White Monster”, the vibrant neon splash of the “Lemon Lime” Variegated, or the incredibly sought-after “Vietciosa”. For the serious connoisseur, we offer rarities like the Monstera “Bulbasaur”—so your home features a statement-making centerpiece that’s as healthy as it is extraordinary.
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Our Monsteras are grown in our greenhouse in Easley, SC, under high-output T5 LED lights. We maintain a steady 75–80°F temperature range and 70–90% humidity to keep every leaf lush and vibrant. Because your plant is coming from this high-performance environment, its first few weeks in your home are the “bridge” to long-term success.
Your Monstera traveled in a dark, sealed box for several days. This limits photosynthesis and exposes the plant to temperature swings. Use the timeline below to help it adapt smoothly.
Monsteras are epiphytic climbers and need oxygen around the roots. Standard potting soil is too dense and increases root rot risk. Here’s our chunky, well-draining recipe:
| Component | Ratio | Benefit |
|---|---|---|
| Pine Bark | 40% | Mimics climbing environment; boosts aeration |
| Peat or Coco Coir | 30% | Retains moisture without becoming soggy |
| Perlite or Orchid Bark | 20% | Creates air pockets to prevent compaction |
| Worm Castings / Charcoal | 10% | Gentle nutrients + helps pull impurities |
Pro Tip: This mix is airy—when watering, soak thoroughly (bottom water or slow pour) so bark/coir actually absorb moisture.
This is usually a light issue. Monsteras produce splits when they have enough light to support extra leaf surface area. It can also be maturity-related—young plants often have solid leaves for the first year or two.
This is guttation—a natural process where the plant releases excess water through pores called hydathodes. It’s generally harmless, but it can indicate very moist soil or extremely high humidity.
Thrips can cause silver/brown scarring. If you see tiny rice-shaped insects, act quickly: wipe leaves with a mix of 70% isopropyl alcohol and castile soap, or use neem oil as a preventative.
Not mandatory, but highly beneficial. Monsteras are climbers—support encourages larger leaves and more dramatic fenestrations as they grow upward.
If it’s only the oldest bottom leaves, it may be natural aging. If multiple leaves yellow at once, check watering—this often signals overwatering or inconsistent moisture.
Tip: After shipping, keep conditions stable—avoid moving the plant repeatedly while it’s rebuilding strength.
Plants for every nook, grown with love in our South Carolina Greenhouse. Explore our hand-selected collections of Alocasias, Monsteras, Anthuriums, and other exceptional plants and Tissue Cultures.
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