Alocasia Plants for Sale: Rare, Unique Varieties & Striking Names

Alocasia Plants for Sale (Including Rare Variegated Alocasia)

Explore our diverse range of Alocasia plants for sale, featuring fan-favorites like Alocasia Pink Pink Variegated K version and Pink Black Velvet, alongside rare gems like Loco and Venom. Shop high-quality Alocasia varieties at The Plant Nook today.

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Welcome to The Plant Nook Family!

Our Alocasia are grown in our greenhouse in Easley, SC, under high-output T5 LED lights with temperatures between 75–80°F and humidity at 70–90%. Because your plant is coming from a highly optimized environment, the first two weeks in your home are the most important for long-term health.

📦 Quick Start: Unboxing & Acclimation

Shipping is stressful. Your plant has been in total darkness and subject to vibrations and temperature shifts. Follow this timeline to help it thrive.

The First 48 Hours: Stabilize

Do Not Repot: Wait at least 2 weeks to avoid unnecessary “transplant shock.”
Temperature Check: Open the box and let the plant sit 1–2 hours to adjust before fully removing.
Inspect Roots: Healthy roots are white/tan and firm. If mushy or foul-smelling, trim affected areas with sterilized scissors.

Days 1–10: The High-Humidity Transition

Create a Microclimate: Use a clear plastic bag or propagation box to keep humidity high (80%+).
Gradual Airflow: Every 2 days, open the bag slightly more (start with a 1-inch gap).
Light: Give bright, indirect light. Avoid direct sun (it can scorch leaves through plastic).

🪴 Substrate Guide: Choosing the Right “Home”

For mother plants, we prefer inorganic media to reduce pests and rot. Here’s a quick comparison:

Substrate	Best For	Pros	Cons
Lechuza Pon	Mother Plants	Balanced wicking; low pest risk; reusable indefinitely	Higher upfront cost; must be rinsed initially
LECA	Large Plants	Maximum aeration; easy to clean; lower rot risk	Harder for fine roots to “grab”; can dry faster at the top
Fluval Stratum	Corms / Rooting	Volcanic nutrients; stimulates rapid root growth	Breaks down into “sludge” after 6–12 months
Aroid Mix	Traditional Care	Familiar; provides organic nutrients	Higher fungus gnat risk; easier to overwater

Our “Go-To” Setup: Semi-Hydro + Naked Root Pots

For rare and variegated mother plants, we use Lechuza Pon in Naked Root pots.

Why it works: 360° aeration slits help prevent root binding and let roots “breathe.”
The reservoir: Sit the pot in a small tray of water (distilled or RO is best). Pon wicks what the plant needs—less guesswork.

✨ Rare & Variegated Plant Care

Bright Indirect Light: Aim for 800–1,200 foot-candles. Low light can cause reversion (more green).
Silica Supplements: Strengthens cell walls and can help prevent delicate white patches from browning or “melting.”
Water Quality: Use distilled or RO water to prevent crispy leaf tips from tap mineral buildup.

❓ Why is my Alocasia “crying” water from its leaf tips?

This is called guttation. It happens when the plant has plenty of water and high humidity, so it releases excess moisture through its leaves. It’s generally harmless—but it can mean you can slightly reduce watering.

❓ Is my plant dead or just dormant?

If it drops all leaves in winter, don’t toss it. Check the rhizome (the “bulb”). If it’s firm and not mushy, it’s likely dormant. Keep it warm (above 65°F) and reduce watering until new growth returns.

❓ How do I get rid of spider mites?

Spider mites are the #1 Alocasia pest. Treat by wiping leaves with a mix of 70% isopropyl alcohol and castile soap. Avoid systemic granules—they’re often ineffective for mites.

❓ How do I grow the little “bulbs” (corms) I found?

Those are baby plants. The best method is the Puddle Method: place the corm in a small container of Fluval Stratum with water filled halfway up the layer. Cover to trap near 100% humidity until the first leaf unfurls.

❓ Why are my leaves turning yellow?

Yellowing is usually a sign of overwatering or low oxygen at the roots. In soil, wait until the top 2 inches are dry. In semi-hydro, ensure the reservoir isn’t too high.

Tip: If you’re acclimating in a bag/box, keep light bright-but-indirect and increase airflow gradually every 2 days.